Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Chichibu Single Cask for Sushi+Soul / Bar Zoetrope

Post by Stefan Van Eycken, Tokyo

Doesn’t happen every day: two of our favourite Japanese whisky hangouts joined hands and bottled a stunning Chichibu single cask together. They couldn’t be farther apart geographically (Sushi+Soul is in Munich, Germany; Bar Zoetrope in Tokyo, Japan), but their respective owners – Chris Herbst and Atsushi Horigami – share the same passion for Japanese whisky. Incidentally, this is the first time a single cask Chichibu was bottled for a European customer other than LMdW. Without further ado, let’s give it a try…
Chichibu 2009/2014, 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel #609, 61.6%abv, joint bottling for Sushi+Soul (Munich, Germany) & Bar Zoetrope (Tokyo, Japan)

On the nose, the initial impressions are a lush forest in springtime (new plank, shrubs and grass); then, a lovely ‘dirty’ sweetness hits you (honey on toast, agave syrup, marshmallow fudge) followed by light fruity elements (orchard fruits mainly: apricots, pears, apples) as well as some fresh ginger. Underneath it all, there’s a vague suggestion of lard and grilled burdock. Given time, the sweeter elements begin to dominate, but if you leave it for about 10 minutes, the fruit starts gaining in prominence. It’s a really dynamic whisky…
The attack on the palate is slightly bitter (bitter oranges and candied grapefruit peel), which develops into the orchard fruits hinted at by the nose (but in ‘abstract’ form – like in soft candy). You also get clear cereal notes, brown sugar on toast and hints of steamed new potatoes and burdock soup. It is so drinkable, even at this relatively young age and high abv – the Chichibu paradox!

The finish is long and sweet but with a slightly bitter edge… a bit like eating slightly burnt toast drizzled with Manuka honey and a bit of peach on the side. With water, you lose some of the tertiary notes on the nose, and it becomes a bit sweeter on the palate. I prefer it without and, as said before, the abv is no obstacle whatsoever.
If you’re in Germany, this is worth making a detour for (to Sushi+Soul) and if you’re in Japan, head to Zoetrope. The labels are different and there’s more bottles in Germany (2/3 of the outturn), but I wouldn’t wait too long either way… word is already getting around that this is a pretty superb Chichibu.

Fresh Bourbon wood works a treat for Chichibu, but how does it respond to sherry? Join us again tomorrow, when we review two recent sherried Chichibus (a PX and an Oloroso).

Monday, October 20, 2014

New manga about Japanese whisky by Japan's financial news group

Post by Chris Bunting

The NHK morning drama "Massan" is putting whisky history front and centre of Japanese popular culture at the moment. An interesting little sidelight on the interest this is provoking among the mainstream media is a new manga in Campanella, a web magazine run by Nikkei (Japan's equivalent of the FT or the Wall Street Journal).

It's called "Whisky ni sasageta futari--Rita to Massan" (Roughly, "Two people who gave their lives to whisky--Rita and Massan") and the first installment starts off pretty much at the same point as the NHK drama, with Rita and Masataka Taketsuru's arrival in Yokohama having returned from Scotland with the techniques of Scottish whisky making.

It is written by a new manga artist writing under the penname "Inumoto" (he/she does have a track record as an illustrator) and it looks like it is going to diverge from NHK's storyline. The first couple of strips feature a maid worrying about Rita's expensive tastes in meat, butter and fuel and trying to teach her to keep house more efficiently in the Japanese style (there was no such interaction in the NHK version).

Anyway, for those Japanese speakers who can't see/bear the Asadora (I've heard mixed reactions), how about a little light manga reading?

Friday, October 17, 2014

Nikka Single Cask Quartet for LMdW: 2014 Releases (2)

Post by Stefan Van Eycken, Tokyo

We’re continuing our review of the new quartet of Nikka single casks for LMdW with their Yoichi and Miyagikyo offerings, both peated (heavily and lightly resp.).
Miyagikyo 1996 (Lightly Peated), #66535, Remade Hogshead, 62%abv, 293btls
Yoichi 1991 (Heavily Peated), #129459, Virgin Oak Puncheon, 62%abv, 423btls

On the nose, the Miyagikyo is an explosion of fruit (apricot jam, pear drops, green apples, grape skin) but with lots of intriguing secondary notes floating by, too: pumpkin pie (with a good dose of nutmeg), smoked dried pineapple, maraschino cherries, honey doughnuts and a little bit of bacon in the background. The peat is very subtle – on the nose it adds something reminiscent of clothes the day after a barbeque, or a campfire doused with water.

With the Yoichi, the peat is much more pronounced, but not as much as you would think. It certainly doesn’t obstruct other aromatic dimensions – and there are plenty of those to be found: initially, a carpenter’s workshop, a humidor and old leather; then mango chutney, thick berry jam, hints of menthol and sage; a bit later, smoked mackerel (saba), smoked daikon, band-aids, muscle cramp spray, and chinsuko cookies. Very eclectic but it works, so why not…

On the palate, the Miyagikyo has the same fruits spotlighted by the nose at its centre but surrounded by sour (kabosu, shikwasa jam) and bitter (grapefruit peel, walnut skin) elements. It evokes crêpes Suzette but it’s also markedly spicy (chili peppers, sansho) and everything comes wrapped in a lovely faint peat furoshiki. What a delight.

The Yoichi is very different. It opens with a blast of pepper and smoke. Then, the thick berry jam hinted at by the nose appears in full glory with some applewood smoked turkey and smoked daikon on the side, all of this supported by a blend of exotic spices. Just like with last year’s Yoichi for LMdW, you’ve got virgin oak and heavy peat complementing (and complimenting) each other wonderfully.

The finish on the Miyagikyo is long and intense. It leaves an afterglow of woody aromas and it’s here that the light peat comes through most cleanly and clearly. The Yoichi’s coda opens with a gorgeous accent of sudachi and then fades on smoked agave, Nutella and candied orange peel. Both work well with water. Water cranks up the bitterness in the Miyagikyo, which is nice if you like that. With the Yoichi, water plays with so many ‘sliders’ on the aroma-and-flavour mixing console that you’ll just have to try and find your own sweet spot.

These two stellar single cask malt whiskies from the Nikka stable may be the only ones available this year anywhere in the world (since Nikka seems to have suspended their regular single cask releases in Japan), so I’d get them both if I were you. If I really had to choose, I would probably pick the Miyagikyo this time around… it’s a quirky take on the classic Miyagikyo profile and full of surprises unlike any other Miyagikyo single cask that’s been bottled in recent years.

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Nikka Single Cask Quartet for LMdW: 2014 Releases (1)

Post by Stefan Van Eycken, Tokyo

It’s that time of the year again: La Maison du Whisky’s quartet of Nikka single casks are almost upon us. Just like in previous years, it showcases the four different facets of Nikka’s whisky production: there’s one specimen from each of its malt distilleries (a Yoichi and a Miyagikyo), a Coffey grain, and a hybrid (something that would be impossible in Scotland) a Coffey malt, i.e. malted barley distilled in a continuous still. We’ll look at them pair by pair, starting with the Coffey offerings.
Coffey Grain 1999, #209699, Bourbon Barrel, 63%abv, 223btls
Coffey Malt 2003, #130541, Re-charred Hogshead, 58%abv, 220btls

On the nose, for the grain (i.e. the 1999), the initial impressions are toasted coconut flakes and overripe banana peel; the malt (i.e. the 2003) is characterized by fresh wood notes (new plank, pencil shavings, annin dofu) and earthy, vegetal elements. Going back to the grain, you’ll find hints of motor oil, spices (cumin and nutmeg), limoncello babas, Twinings’ salted caramel tea (no product placement intended) and a very subtle suggestion of lamb chops with rosemary. The malt, on the other hand, is really like an early morning meadow in spring with some home-made spicecake (‘peperkoek’) and whiffs of nail varnish.

On the palate, with the grain bottling, you get that typical Nikka Coffey Grain note – like tupig (sticky rice logs with coconut cream and molasses, cooked in banana leaves) – but with a lovely spicy development (nutmeg, cloves, a bit of garam masala). The malt is very different: an intensely fruity attack (totally unannounced by the palate) and then you find yourself in a bakery on a Sunday morning.

Water doesn't do all that much for the grain, but it really has an impact on the malt. Just a few drops and it opens like a magic box, throwing an avalanche of cut flower stems and ripe plums at you. On the palate, water brings out hot chocolate and dried dates.

The finish on the Coffey Grain is like eating raspberry-white chocolate Tim Tams around a campfire that’s just been lit, whereas the Coffey Malt’s adieu is all about Christmas stollen in the meadows.

Join us again tomorrow when we take the Yoichi and Miyagikyo for a walk across the senses.

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Arran distillery managing director Euan Mitchell in Japan: a chat about what lies ahead

Post by Stefan Van Eycken, Tokyo

At the beginning of the month, Arran distillery managing director Euan Mitchell was in Japan for a few days. We caught up with him at the Park Hotel in Tokyo and – seeing as he had brought some cask samples of forthcoming releases – we started by asking him about the much-anticipated 18-year old…
Euan: It’s obviously designed to be the premium offering. As things stand, the plan is for the standard range to be 10, 14 and 18, with four years between each particular bottling. Longer term, we do have plans for older bottlings as well – 21 and 25 – as the stock profile develops. There’s a lot of excitement about the 18. It sort of cements Arran’s place as having come of age and it will allow us to have a portfolio that matches anyone’s now.

The first release [a limited edition] will be in the spring of next year. Then, the regular 18… we’re not quite sure yet: either the end of 2015 or the beginning of 2016.

The 10 and the 14 have distinct profiles. What will the profile of the 18 be like?

The company primarily filled 2nd-fill sherry hogsheads the first two or three years, so that would be the profile. We’re going to prepare a vatting for the regular release shortly. If we feel it needs it, we would maybe re-cask it to some fresh sherry. But as things stand, it would be 100% sherry, principally 2nd-fill.
Is the process of creating a new release such as the forthcoming 18yo the work of one man or is it a team-effort?

We do have something of a whisky committee, but it's principally one man, James MacTaggart. He has the responsibility. What happens is: we discuss the initial concept and then we identify what stock is available. James then blends samples together of that stock. He will create a kind of mini-vatting – put a mini-blend together of the different casks – leave it for a bit of time. We then evaluate it. He gives his opinion, whether he thinks it’s good as it is or whether we need to look at maybe adding in some other stock, or changing the profile, or indeed if we need to do a little bit of re-casking just to kind of add something else to it. It’s ultimately James’ responsibility but he does value the input of others in the business, including myself.

You mentioned that the first few years, refill sherry wood was predominant at Arran. What is the situation like now as far as wood management is concerned?

Since 2005, we have principally filled ex-bourbon barrels. At the moment, probably about 80% of our casks are ex-bourbon, although we are bringing in more and more sherry wood to the profile as well. Our game plan, ideally, would be a 70-30 split.

Is it difficult for an independent distillery like Arran to get hold of good quality wood for maturation?

It has become an issue in the last year or two. In the US, in 2008 and 2009, the bourbon distillers cut production, so there were fewer bourbon barrels being made. There’s a four-year lead time so that’s meant that now there’s definitely a shortage in place and it’s going to take a few years for that to be adjusted. A lot of the cooperages laid staff off and cut down on production. They’re only now getting back to the stage where they’re able to meet the demand. So far – touch wood! – we’ve not been badly affected but as we look to grow, that may become something of an issue. In terms of sherry wood, we’ve made a lot of contacts with producers directly in Spain. We’ve built up those relations, going out there and setting out a program of our requirements so that we are getting a lot of good sherry casks into the system now. And also, if we are using these for re-casking for a period, we can then use them again to fill with new spirit. So, it’s a kind of constantly evolving process.

In the early years, Arran had a plethora of wood finishes. Is that still a priority?

We’re always open to new ideas, but principally we do the three finishes now as an ongoing part of the range: the Amarone, port and Sauternes. Those were the ones that we felt were the most successful combinations in the early years and, again, we’ve got good relations with suppliers of these products. In the early years, it was a way of bringing people’s attention to the brand, of experimenting with younger stock. It got to the stage where we felt we’d probably done too many of these and it was time to kind of focus more in on the core range of ages and styles.

I personally thought the calvados-finish was very successful. Is there any reason why that wasn’t pursued?

The principal reason is that the SWA [Scotch Whisky Association] don’t actually recognize the use of calvados wood as ‘traditional practice’. I think it’s quite unfortunate, because it did make an excellent product. We had a long discussion with them about it. Hopefully, they will change their mind at some stage. The SWA have pretty much allowed wine casks of any provenance to be used because they would find it impossible to narrow in on particular styles. So you could use a Zinfandel cask from California, but you can’t use a calvados cask from Normandy…

…even though it’s highly likely such casks were used ‘traditionally’.

Yes, the SWA say there is no strong evidence that they were used, but there is no evidence that they weren’t used either. We like to think they will change their mind at some stage.
Reports for the first half of the year seem to indicate that worldwide whisky sales, overall, have declined significantly. What’s your perspective on that, as managing director of Arran?

We’re still growing. If you narrow into these figures, the single malt sales across the industry have still grown by 5%. So, as you say, it’s whisky sales overall… and I think a lot of that is driven by the big companies, like Diageo and Pernod, who’ve seen sales dropping in markets like China. I don’t think it’s a true reflection of what’s happening across the industry. Because the industry is so dominated by the big players, if there’s any slippage there, it tends to then impact across the whole industry, but it doesn’t necessarily mean that everyone’s in the same position. The first half of this year, our sales were up 20% so, again, we’re kind of bucking the trend albeit from a smaller base.

Growth in the whisky business is less straightforward than in most other fields, since it needs to be backed up by the availability of stock laid down many years ago. Are there certain vintages that you don't have much stock of and that you have to guard closely?

Yes, some of the early years are starting to get a bit scarce now. It’s quite scary. The production was very, very low in 2003 and 2004 – there was virtually nothing made those two years. We had a cash flow issue at the time. The business was 7, 8 years old and had incurred a lot of costs over the years. It's very expensive to be continually laying down stock and the sales at that time were comparatively low. In hindsight, now that we’ve grown so quickly, it's a bit of a problem, but it's common across most distilleries: there are gaps for certain years and you just have to manage your way around that.
You’ve just released several follow-ups to some popular limited releases from the past couple of years…

Yes, we've just released the two new Machrie Moors – it’s the 5th release of the Machrie Moor at 46% but this is the first time since we increased the peating level to 20ppm. [The early ones were all around 14ppm.] We’ve also done a release at cask strength this year, which is just over 58%. Those are both very nice. In the cask strength one, in particular, there’s a real concentration of the classic Arran sweetness and fruit but with some lovely peat in there.

Is 20ppm the highest peating level you’re working with?

No, since 2011, we’ve been doing a batch every year at 50ppm, so that’s just turned three years old and we have plans to release that in a few years’ time under a different brand name again. It’s already tasting very nice… but, against our instincts, we’re holding it back until it’s a bit older.

There’s also a new Bere Barley release on the horizon…

Yes, that goes back to stock we produced in 2004, in conjunction with the Agricultural Institute in Orkney. At that time, we filled 40 barrels produced from bere barley. We did the first release two years ago and this is the balance of the stock. This time, it’s 10 years old, and also, this time, it’s been bottled again at cask strength instead of at 46%. It's got a much stronger cereal, malty, gristy note to it than regular Arran. It seemed to do very well last time, so I think, this time, at cask strength and being a little bit older, people will be even more interested in it.
And then there’s the final chapter in the hugely popular Devil’s Punchbowl trilogy, which was a big hit. How scary is it to have to come up with something that can trump that?

It’s definitely a challenge, but you know, you’ve got to thrive on these things. It was very successful. The third release produced a level of Arran-mania which we hadn’t witnessed before. A lot of people phoning up, chasing us for stock. I think, probably the third one is the most consistent.

Does it contain some peated malt, like the 2nd chapter?

No, it doesn’t actually. We would have liked to have done but we have very low stocks of older peated casks available, so we decided not to this time. We used some Arran which has been matured in ex-cognac casks and the French oak seems to have added something a little different to it.

What does the future hold for Arran? Expansion?

Yes, that’s certainly on the table. This year we’ve placed an order with the coppersmiths Forsyth’s. We’ve got two new stills on order – exact replicas of the original stills, which they made. They still have the original blueprints so we asked them to completely replicate the wash and the spirit still. Same size. There’s a bit of a lead time – they’re very busy at the moment creating stills for all these new distilleries around the world – so we’re probably going to have them ready for installation in 2016, just in time for our 21st anniversary. So that would allow us – if we wish – to take production over a million liters a year and to ensure that there are never any stock issues in the future. It’s an exciting time. The distillery has changed a lot in the 11 years that I have been there. Our aim is to make the same great spirit – we don't want to mess around with that – but just make more of it.

Fans of Arran in Japan can look forward to two new store-exclusive single casks this month (or next), one for Shinanoya and another for Isetan in Shinjuku. Watch this space for further details!